In The Pantry with Mike Bennie

Drinks Writer, Food & Drink Consultant, and Co-Founder of P&V Wine and Liquor Merchants Mike Bennie, let's me in on his ideal day of eating in Sydney.

It’s hard to sum up Mike Bennie in just a few words, the man wears many hats, “I seem to cross a lot of genres in the drinks world.” I asked Mike to write me an itinerary of his ideal day of eating in Sydney which included his favourite restaurant in Australia, then we chatted on some of his most underrated food experiences and which now-closed Sydney restaurant he would bring back. Enjoy.

Photography courtesey of Delicious and Porcine on Instagram.

For breakfast… I’m a big fan of the forage approach to breakfast so diving into Carriageworks Farmers Market is great for cobbling together drinks and snacks from excellent, proximate, Sydney-basin and surrounds farmers and producers, alongside some pantry items, or just straight up dishes from the array of stalls there. Ditto the Organic Food Markets in Marrickville, which has such great character and mainlines really interesting smaller scale farms, cooks, pop-up stalls and producers. I love sitting on the grass there for a breakfast feast drawn together from multiple stalls.

For lunch… Porcine (Paddington). Long lunch. The Party Booth on the balcony. This is my favourite restaurant in Australia. Lunch is the apex for dining there for me, but any dinner service works too. Sure, it’s above P&V Paddington, so it’s close to mind, but so too I see the detail and dedication that goes into cooking, the hyper-seasonal sourcing and use of produce, let alone the incredible technique that goes into each dish. You find pure visceral pleasure and levity when eating there - a rare mix. Plus service is down right charming. Every visit I shake my head at how good it is, and yet how accessible to all, in a space that makes everyone feel relaxed. Ticks them boxes, and then some.

Snack time… For many it maybe a mission, but heading to King of Pickles and Spices in Fairfield to gather up, well, pickles and spices (and olives and other sundry snackable items), combined with Baalbek bakery flatbreads, juxtaposed with La Paula’s Chilean fare, particularly empanadas and hotdogs, all consumed on a perch by Lake Parramatta - this is pretty ideal. Take your swimmers for that lake dip.

For dinner… I have a real soft spot for the older places in Sydney, so I’m opting here for Jager schnitzel at Una’s in Darlinghurst, with requisite wheat beer, a side of sauerkraut, creamed spinach and maybe some cucumber salad and weisswurst. It’s a similar line up at Concordia Club in Tempe too, and sitting outside looking out over the bowling green there is a nice spot, plus beer again is great here. I also really like visiting Xenos in Crows Nest, which though Greek leaning, also seems to nail schnitzel, indeed at lusty portion sizes (with very good boiled potatoes). Slow-cooked lamb specials seem to hit the mark too.

(Editors note* you must get the mushroom sauce with your schnitty.)

What’s the most underrated food experience you’ve had in Sydney?

I think generally getting out of the inner metro area of Sydney unlocks a great deal of really wonderful food experiences, and there is so much to explore and learn from in that regard, but to nail down the question, I think the stuffed-with-good-things seafood shop and deli at Pacific Square in Maroubra are really, really good, and don’t get their name up in lights much - The Fish Market and Deli Hub, respectively.

If you could bring back any now-closed Sydney restaurant, which one would it be?

I deeply miss the energy and uniqueness of 121BC from its halcyon days, that was one very special spot with some amazing humans amongst it all. In no particular order I also miss the beauty and elegance, yet casual nature, of Bistrode (Surry Hills and Tabou (Surry Hills) with its hit-the-nail-on-the-head French bistro vibes. These were significant places for me as they were around when I was upscaling my enjoyment of great dining and drinking. They felt romantic and fancy and interesting and cool all at once - they taught me about good food, wine and service, and how great people make great venues.. I also miss the Jewish ‘RSL’ that was the Hakoah Club (Bondi) - I spent so much of my childhood at Hakoah and loved its multiple levels to explore (Chess club? Cinema? Games Room?), delicious, hearty food, and generally fun atmosphere. That being said, I’d love another night at the Hopetoun (Surry Hills), the old Judgement bar upstairs at Taylor Square, or Grotta Capri (Kensington)..

What are you hoping to see more of in food in 2025?

Equality, care for staff, diversity, health and well-being of people involved in food. More so, an actual nailing down of sustainability that actually sees biodiversity, climate action in reframing farming, and smaller scale farming become a focus, rather than sidelines in greater green-washing - and this being reflected in dining mores.

What's a spot you wouldn't want to share because it’s just too good? It’s out of Sydney, in Ettalong on the Central Coast, but geez, I like Malay Bites in the crazy-cool Galleria building there. It feels like they’re cooking for themselves, but we get to share. A simple menu, done superbly. And so cheap. Also, I love Twenty-One Espresso (Double Bay), sure it’s been around forever, but it reminds me of my Slovak-Hungarian Oma cooking for me, so between chopped liver, matzo ball soup and goulash, I have a lot of happy moments and transportation to other times.

Find Mike here, and don’t forget to check out P&V Wine and Liquor Merchants.

Thanks for reading!